style |
beauty
D o n ’ t
r e a c h
f o r
t h e
s a m
e
a n t i d o t e s
y o u
u s e d
b a c k
i n
h i g h
s c h o o l —
b e n z o y l
p e r o x i d e
i s
t o o
h a r s h
f o r
d r y ,
f r a g i l e
a d u l t
s k i n .
and neck? Swap foundations. Seek formulas
that are oil-free and noncomedogenic (meaning
they don’t cause comedones, the medical term
for white- and blackheads); talc-free mineral
makeup is an antiacne option. Sunscreen
could be another offender. Try switching to
an oil- and wax-free formula.
How can I zap that zit now?
To treat adult acne, pimple-eradicating
products are the first line of attack. But don’t
reach for the same antidotes you used in
high school—benzoyl peroxide is too harsh
for dry, fragile adult skin. Often it takes a
cocktail of two or more treatments to keep
the bumps at bay. Start and end each day
with a pore-flushing salicylic acid cleanser
such as Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress
Control Power Cream Wash, $7. Salicylic acid
is also the ingredient of choice to spot-treat.
Try Dr. Brandt Blemishes No More Intense
Solution, $35, or Clearasil Stayclear Adult
Acne Tinted Treatment Cream, $5. In a pinch,
crush and make a paste of aspirin, which is
actually salicylic acid. Although it may seem
counterintuitive, skin still needs hydration, so
no skipping the moisturizer. Opt for an oil-free
version with SPF—like that found in the Go
Clear 3-Step Acne and Blemish Regimen, $40.
A weekly sulfur mask can help squelch excess
oil; try DDF Sulfur Therapeutic Mask, $38.
Remember to clean your phones—cell and
landlines—often. Those petri dishes of dirt
and germs rest right on your hot zone: around
the chin and mouth. Sterilize phones with the
same salicylic acid pad you’d use on your face.
And for goodness sake, don’t pick at
pustules—unless you want a permanent
reminder. “Although the red scar eventually
fades, indents and pits don’t,” says Manhattan
dermatologist Macrene Alexiades. If your
20th high school reunion is days away and you
need that pimple gone stat, a dermatologist
can take down the painful, red inflammation
with a cortisone shot. And, above all,
remember these treatments won’t effect
miracles overnight. Finding the right product
combination for your skin takes time and
consistency. Doctors say that most people
seldom stick with a product long enough for
it to work.
When do I call in the professionals?
Still not seeing results one month later? Don’t
dole out for pricier products—the active
ingredients are the same. It’s wiser to spend
that money at a dermatologist, who has an
arsenal of laser lights and prescription cures.
“Adult acne tends to be chronic. At-home
treatments keep it under control, while
periodic in-office procedures will amplify the
results,” Dr. Brandt says.
t o p ic a l
Daily topical treatments include
retinoids (yes, the wrinkle-fighting
ingredient) prescribed in Tazorac, Retin A,
and Differin to help stop acne before it starts.
Antimicrobials such as clindamycin and
erythromycin curb red inflammation.
oral
Estrogen- and progestin-containing birth
control pills are often prescribed to suppress
hormonal fluctuations. Doctors may bolster
the treatment with an oral antibiotic, such as
doxycycline. “It’s very effective at inhibiting
inflammation and bacteria in the short term,
but it also increases the risk of infections, such
as bronchitis,” Dr. Alexiades says. For severe
acne, doctors may prescribe oral isotretinoin
(Accutane, which you may have heard about
in the news). It’s a retinoid that can have
significant side effects and it must be monitored
by a doctor and avoided by women who are
pregnant.
l a s e r s
These are the latest resource and a
costly one at that—several hundred dollars per
treatment with several sessions needed—but
they provide an alternative to daily pills or
prescription creams. Lasers use high-frequency
light to kill bacteria and nudge oil glands to
produce less oil. Like any medical treatment,
one size doesn’t fit all and every doctor
has a preferred laser protocol to employ in
conjunction with topical treatments.
Finally, once you find a solution, stick with
the mix—even when the bad stuff appears to
be gone. Bacteria are always present, so the
cure is only as good as the compliance. ■
H o t
t o o l s
With so many at-home
acne gadgets, it begs
the question: Left to
your own devices,
can you zap away
zits? The answer is a
resounding.
..maybe.
These devices,
modeled on treatments
that dermatologists
use to treat acne, vary
widely in cost—from
the $40 Zeno Hot
Spot that treats with
bacteria-killing heat
to the $300 Tanda
Professional Clear
Acne Light Therapy
Treatment that emits
high-intensity blue
light to eliminate
acne-causing bacteria.
Clinical evidence is
limited (and some
say, well,
sp otty
):
Small-scale, short-
term studies show
improvement in 25%
to 80% of people.
Long-term efficiency
of these devices is
simply not yet known.
All are safe for at-
home use; although,
like all over-the-
counter treatments,
effectiveness pales in
comparison to that of
seeing a professional.
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B E T T E R H O M E S A N D GARDEN'S |
MAY 2011 |
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